I have always considered beef tenderloin a “high stress” meal and given it a wide berth. This is an expensive cut of meat—it’s not one that you want to mess up by trusting an untrustworthy recipe or forgetting to set a timer. Add to this, roast beef tenderloin most often appears on menus around the holidays. I’ve never quite been able to overcome the terrifying possibility of ruining both a wage-devouring cut of meat and Christmas dinner. But then I started doing more sous vide cooking, and with it came a confidence in cooking things that previously intimidated me. Like fish. And pork chops that actually taste like something. Maybe, just maybe, it could do the same for beef tenderloin. Spoiler alert: Of course it could.
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Let’s talk about beef tenderloin for a second. This cut comes from the center of the loin, where the muscle is very tender and lean (not a lot of fat). Typically, this cut is sliced into the individual steaks we know and love called filet mignon. It’s a small cut, usually weighing less than 8 pounds total. When you compare that to the size of a fully-grown steer and how much meat that steer can provide, you begin to understand why the tenderloin is such an expensive, coveted cut of meat. The fact that it’s tender actually makes it really easy to cook—but also very easy to overcook. Tenderloin can easily go from melt-in-your-mouth to tough and chewy if you take your eye off it for a second.
The Benefits of Cooking Beef Sous Vide
This is where sous vide comes into play. Sous vide is a very gentle and slow kind of cooking. The beef is coddled in the sous vide water bath, cooking gradually in its own juices over the course of a few hours. The sous vide immersion circulator (I use a Joule) also keeps the temperature tightly controlled, so the tenderloin never has a chance to overcook. Basically, it takes out the guesswork and the potential for human error, giving us a 100% stress-free meal. To make this beef tenderloin even more special, I give it a double-sear: once before it goes into the sous vide bath and again after it comes up. The first time builds flavor in the dish; the second time gives the cooked roast a nice outer crust. Use some Port wine (I like tawny Port) to deglaze the pan, then pour it over the beef. While it cooks, the beef picks up the rich flavor of the Port—so good. And, of course, cooking juices become a delicious sauce that you can serve alongside the roast.
How To Slice Sous Vide Beef Tenderloin
Slice it thinly like roast beef or thick like filet mignon—either way is a winner. While the tenderloin was cooking sous vide, I spent the time roasting a few sheet pans of winter vegetables and making a of polenta to serve alongside. Curious to give sous vide cooking a try? Check out the Joule immersion circulator from ChefSteps. (I love mine!) When buying your tenderloin roast, make sure the butcher removes the silver skin. Also ask them to truss the roast with twine. You can do both of these steps yourself, but it’s one less thing for you to worry about back home! Sear the tenderloin in the pan until it’s dark brown all over, 1 to 2 minutes on each side and both ends. Transfer to a plate or cutting board and allow to cool slightly. Add the Port wine and use a stiff spatula to scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Let the wine come to a simmer, then remove from heat. Place a gallon-sized zip-top freezer bag on your counter and flip the zip-top edge outward, forming a cuff around the bag. This helps the bag stay open and upright as you fill it. Transfer the tenderloin to the bag and pour the sauce over top. Lay 5 or 6 sprigs of thyme over the top of the tenderloin. Fill a stock pot with 5 or 6 inches of water. Slowly submerge the tenderloin in the water, using your hands to help push out all the air from the bag as you go. When you reach the top of the bag, zip it closed. Lift the tenderloin out of the water and place it on a towel while you heat the water for the sous vide. Cook for 2 1/2 to 3 hours, but avoid cooking for much longer or the beef will start to get a little soft and mushy. Use tongs to lift the roast from the bag and transfer it to the skillet. Be careful—it will sputter! Sear for 30 to 60 seconds on all sides, until the outside is even more deeply browned and a crust has formed. Transfer the tenderloin to a cutting board and rest for 5 to 10 minutes.
